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Just Cruisin' Man.
Now that it is more than six months since I completed Paris-Brest-Paris
I feel able to think and write about the experience without too
much trauma and I am able to gather my confused recollections of
this classic event.
I left Brighton on Friday to cycle the ten miles to Newhaven in
time to catch the 8.00am Sea-Cat to Dieppe. Unfortunately it was
full so I sailed with Transmanche on the 10am boat and it was 3.30pm
before I disembarked in Dieppe so I decided to spend the night at
the Youth Hostel.
On Saturday morning, well fortified with about a metre of baguette
and jam, I set off in the direction of Paris. I followed the same
route as on my 1992 trip to Frejus. This took me via Rouen to Vernon.
The hostel was full so I pressed on to Mantes-la-Jolie. There is
nothing jolie about Mantes, in fact it is Pants! but they had a
room at the Formula 1 and space for my bike in the broom cupboard.
There was heavy rain overnight and I later learnt that some Audax
UK members camping near Paris had been washed out. On Sunday morning
it was fine as I set off for the Depart. I had reserved a room at
the Audax UK hotel but on arrival I was told that it was over-booked.
I enquired if there was space in Bill Dean's room only to be told
that he had left strict instructions that he was not to be disturbed
if a tall, good looking, rider pretending to be his club-mate tried
to squat in his room. Le Patron then put my bike in the back of
his W.W.2 Jeep and took me to the Campanile hotel about five km
away. In the afternoon I cycled to the H.Q. for the bike check and
to sign on. There was a minor problem as I had forgotten my spare
batteries but I proudly showed the checker my two spare bulbs and
he let me pass. The document pack contained a rather nice "Super
Randonneur" medal from Audax Club Parisien. For a moment I
felt I should take my medal and quit while ahead. There was about
a dozen Brits in the hotel and we had a pleasant dinner talking
in the main about our qualifying rides. Nobody had ridden PBP previously
so we were all pretty nervous about the task ahead.
On Monday morning I was up by seven o'clock and hoovered up a massive
buffet breakfast after which I had to lie down to digest the carbo
load. I then checked out and went to the Audax UK hotel. I removed
my panniers and fastened a top bag to the rack. I then decided to
lighten the load and removed the bag and rack and fitted a small
saddle wedge bag instead. I then slumped in a comfortable armchair
in the hotel lounge stirring only to walk to a boulangerie to buy
a snack.
At six pm I rode to the start for the pre ride dinner where I saw
Bill Dean behind a plate of pasta and we spoke briefly. At eight
pm I watched the "vedettes" start. I was surprised to
see that they departed in two groups with a fifteen minute gap as
there had been no mention of this on the PBP web site. I was also
surprised that the majority looked like the usual bunch of Audax
turkeys. I had imagined it would look like the start of a Tour stage
with bronzed muscled limbs not varicose veins and cellulite! I immediately
wished I had entered for this eighty hour group if only to reduce
the hanging about which was really getting me down
.
By 8.30pm a queque had already formed for the ten pm start but I
decided that I didn't want to stand for ninety minutes and went
for a sit down. I spoke to an American who had ridden twice before.
He told me to look on the event as a series of three 400km rides
with thirty hours to "cruise" each section. That sounded
easy-peasy and cheered me up no end.
At 10.30pm I joined the tail of the queque and at 10.50pm I finally
started. I had been up for sixteen hours and was ready for bed!
Fortunately the early kms were a great experience and I soon felt
charged up. There was a crowd on every junction cheering "Bon
Courage Mon Brave"! OK it was midnight and the bars had just
shut so they were probably taking the mick but with 1200km to go
it still sounded good.
I followed wheels until the first stop at Mortagne Au Perche after
140km. There I saw Bill Dean who told me that Gethin Butler had
started in the second group. It was obvious that he had no chance
of catching the leaders. I have since spoken to his Dad who said
Gethin just screwed up and was not the victim of an evil French
conspiracy to do our boy down.
Dawn was breaking on Tuesday as I neared the control at Villaines
La Juhel after 225km so I turned off my front light to conserve
the batteries but an official at the roadside called out to me.
I quickly covered my number to avoid the time penalty for a rule
infringement. The next control was at Fougeres at 311km which I
reached in under thirteen hours. This was somewhat faster than my
best time in a 300km event but I felt that I was sticking to the
"Just Cruisin" rule.
I had a hearty brunch then pressed on to Tinteniac at 365km. for
afternoon tea. I left Tinterniac at 4pm and reached Loudeac 86km
nearer Brest at 7.30pm. There was a scrum for the food and I had
to queque for forty minutes which isn't what you want.
In a moment of weakness I decided to stop for a sleep as I had been
up for 36 hours. This was a mistake. Had I pressed on to Carhaix
I would have arrived by midnight and, importantly, I would have
been ahead of the crowd. I had a shower and as I wasn't carrying
a towel I dried myself with my racing jersey. I paid two euro for
a three hours kip on a camp-bed in a large tent. A pillow would
have been nice. I recorded the time I wanted to be woken and at
2.30am on Wednesday someone shone a torch in my face and I hit the
road again. As I left late arrivals were waiting for the bed I had
vacated.
By 4am I was beginning to bonk but luckily there was a bakery open
and I topped up on pain aux raisin which I feel has more substance
than croissants or pain aux chocolat. In any event it got me to
Carhaix at 530km. It seemed strange having a big dinner for breakfast
but there was no alternative if I was to keep the motor running.
However the "vegetable" soup provided little nourishment
as it was the consistency and taste of dishwater. How I longed for
a bowl of Bungo!
About thirty km from Brest I was riding alone when I passed a patisserie.
The window display was so tempting that I broke my Golden Rule and
stopped other than at an official control. Suitably fortified I
joined a nice group that swept towards Brest. The view was superb
as we crossed an impressive bridge over the bay and some stopped
to take photographs. There was then a stiff climb up to the control
at 615km. It had taken 36 hours and I felt that unless I suffered
a major mishap I was bound to finish. It had been a vent debout
out and I was looking forward to 600km of tail wind. The organisation
also felt we deserved a reward as I was given a beer.
The return started with a long climb to Roc Trevezel where a former
Kenton clubmate now living at Quimper gave me a cheer. At this stage
I joined a group of Italians who were riding in a very orderly fashion.
Unfortunately they had a couple of weak links and they waited for
them at the top of each hill so I decided to press on. I can recall
little of this stage of the ride other than it was very undulating.
I was annoyed that the French ( like the Southport C.C.) tended
to freewheel downhill whereas I preferred to give it big licks hoping
to freewheel most of the way up the next slope. Naturally this annoyed
the Frogs as I belted past on the descent only to tuck in behind
them as they caught me again.
Back at Carhaix ,700km, I snacked with a young Aussie and when we
left the control I was amazed to see that he was riding a sixties
style, three speed, Moulton! He said that his girlfriend was riding
a modern space-frame Moulton but I cannot recall if she was ahead
or behind. After about twenty km we passed through the village of
St Lubin where there was a really nice welcoming party offering
coffee and snacks. This was a regular feature but for some reason
St Lubin impressed as a special atmosphere. In fact on returning
home I sent a thank you note to the Marie.
I arrived back at Loudeac (773km) at 8.30pm. Although it was a little
early I didn't fancy another 90km to the next control so I had a
leisurely meal and then booked a bed until 2.00am. The night was
cold and by 1.00 am on Thursday I was awake and decided to press
on. At some stage I had lost my hat,armwarmers and trackmits and
I was freezing. I stopped to put on my rain jacket and as I remounted
a French group came past. I tucked in and the group was really moving.
I was pleased that after 800km I could still cut the mustard in
a pace line.
Once again I got the early morning munchies and I was beginning
to despair when we stopped at a secret control stacked with grub.
The French group stayed just long enough to get their cards stamped
but I tucked into a hearty breakfast and had a nap at the table
before setting off again.
I remember little of this day other than the weather being very
warm and the wind was, in the main, helpful. In the afternoon I
again broke my golden rule and stopped in a bar for a beer. Shortly
after restarting I came over very weak and sat at the side of the
road to eat an energy bar that I had found at the last control.
I was idly reading the label which read "Luna- the whole nutrition
bar for women- because we care what we put in our bodies" and
thinking it was obviously a variation on what Marianne Faithful
allegedly did with a Mars bar. Just then Alan Ephgrave, who has
worked at Whiskers for forty years, came along. We rode together
to Mortagne where he dropped me on the climb to the control. So
much for the customer always being right!
By this time it was 9pm and after dinner I tried to book a bed but
there was some bureaucratic confusion so I went for a shower instead.
The showers were excellent and I stayed under the relaxing water
for about thirty minutes. I then went to the medical control were
I had a massage which seemed to sap what little strength remained
in my legs but was again relaxing. I then mentioned that my derriere
was rather tender so I was back on the table for an application
of creme. The paramedic then taped lint to the relevant parts but
as that clearly wasn't going to help I quietly removed it.I should
mention that at every control since Brest I had been self-medicating
by applying Mil-Kreem a South African product which is a milking
salve (melksalf in Afrikaans) designed for application to the udders
of cows to prevent discomfort at milking time.
The label does not explain if it helps the cow or the milk-maid.
I will not trouble you with details of how I was introduced to this
product but I will say that surprisingly it seemed to work on my
right cheek but not on the left and I can offer no explanation for
this. By the time I came out of the medical control I felt so renewed
that I decided to forego a bed and instead head off into the cold
dark night. I felt pretty good for about forty km but then I began
to feel very sleepy so I tried to sleep behind a war memorial on
the edge of a small town. After twenty minutes of fidgety rest I
gave up and pressed on again. In the next village I joined a group
of Brits who were lost. We eventually found the road out of town
and settled into a good pace. A Geordie said he was so tired that
he had to stop and sleep. I told him that we must be less than five
km from the penulimate control at Nogent Le Roi but he insisted
that it was "an health and safety issue" and he must stop.
He then lay down on the pavement! In fact we reached the control
in five minutes. I had a hot breakfast and then considered if I
should press on to beat eighty hours but decided against it. I slept
for more than an hour laid out on a bench nine inches wide.
As I set off on the last leg into the rising sun on Friday I rode
with three Germans. One was riding a full suspension bike that looked
as if it weighed forty pounds. He said he bought it because he had
a bad back but he didn't think that it helped much. This part of
the route was fairly hilly and I left the German on his Panzer behind
on a hill. Shortly afterwards my computer clocked up 1200km and
I changed up and pressed hard on the cranks for the first time since
leaving Paris. Up to this point I had been Cruisin' conserving my
energy at all costs but I now felt I could throw caution to the
wind. I caught and dropped two men on a tandem as we joined the
busy streets of Guyancourt and I entered the final control at 8.30am
to the sound of one hand clapping. I had my card swiped for the
last time, handed in my Brevet card and went to the bar for my free
beer.
I picked up my panniers at the Audax UK hotel then went back to
the Campanile for a bath and a lie down.That night eight of the
riders from the hotel went for a celebration dinner. It was really
strange to eat without falling asleep at the table! A young South
African living in London had got round in sixty hours but a scouser
had packed at Brest and returned on the train. Not surprisingly
he didn't enjoy the night listening to the rest of us swapping tales.
On Saturday morning I declined an offer of a lift to Dover and instead,
to ease the stiffness out of my legs, I cycled 220km to Dieppe.
I went to the Youth Hostel to use their showers, then for one more
high carb. meal and caught the Seacat to Newhaven at 1.00am on Sunday
. I cycled to Brighton, getting home at 4am, to find that my elder
daughter Zoe had come from Harrow to welcome the "Ancien"
home. She called congratulations from the bedroom then went back
to sleep!
For the technically minded I rode a Roberts compact made from Columbus
Max steel tubing. It was fitted with mudguards which I did not need
as there was no rain. Gears are 46,38,26 chainrings and 13 to 21
8speed cassette. I was one of a tiny minority with down tube levers.
Tyres are Panaracer Stradius 700c x26mm. with Michelin latex tubes.
I rode these tyres in all Audax events,including riding to and from
Mons and Paris. I replaced the back tyre before PBP and had no puntures.
I cannot recommend them too highly.
I had two L.E.D. rear lights and two Cateye front lights, one a
three L.E.D. type and the other a 2xD cell light with a halogen
bulb. I was envious of riders who had either a Lightspin dynamo
or a Schmidt dynohub. I fitted foam under the bar tape and suffered
no hand discomfort.
I rode SPD trainer type shoes that were excellent for all the walking
and standing around but I did suffer from numb toes and six months
later the problem remains. As mentioned earlier I had considerable
discomfort from a sore behind which seems unavoidable to a greater
or lesser degree.
The parcours is very pleasant almost all being on minor roads. The
route is well signed, out and home arrows being different colours.
Only once did I go off course when, in the dark, I followed a rider
out of a control to a motor caravan where he was to spend the night
with his wife! The roads are well maintained although long stretches
have a course, grippy surface that not only slows you down but is
also wearing on the posterior. According to the Willesden C.C. magazine
there are 360 climbs in the event.
This sounds unlikely but the Willesden should know as they had 33
starters! I would recommend PBP as something that every club cyclist
should "tick off" before he/she is too old. Anybody who
has a modicum of talent for the sport would have no difficulty getting
inside 90 hours
. I took 81 hours 40 minutes and I was actually cycling for 51 hours.
I had no support carrying just a spare pair of shorts, a long sleeve
Helly Henson vest and a rain jacket in a saddle wedge . I took Ibuprofen
throughout the ride to keep the dreaded dodgy knees at bay and I
took ProPlus caffeine tablets each night (taking care to stay below
the UCI limit!).
Roll on P-B-P 2007 (maybe).
Ray Green, Brighton, Sussex. Club Champion (audax).
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